Day Five: Journey to Praiano

       On Tuesday we took a bus, a train, a ferry, and another bus to reach our destination in Praiano on the Amalfi Coast. The first bus took us to Termini Station where we would catch the train to Salerno. We had very little time for lunch, and since we had yet to taste the famed Italian gelato, we decided to buy some at a snack bar in the station. The gelato was in covered metal containers so we couldn't point to what we wanted like you can in most gelaterias, but we saw limone on the list of choices and told the cashier that's what we wanted. Two limone gelato cones - one medium and one small. The cashier gave us a receipt which we took to the server and also told him we wanted limone cones. I don't think he knew any English, but gelato is an Italian word, right?

       The server asked if we wanted a second flavor, so Mark asked for orange (arancia) and I requested cioccolato. He said that was not an option. I wondered why not, but said I'd take arancia, too. We expected him to open the metal containers and scoop out our gelato, but instead he took out a fresh lemon and an orange, and peeled them. What was he doing? Was he going to make our gelato from scratch? We asked him if he knew we wanted gelato. He said, yes, it would just take five minutes to make it. We watched him put the fruit in a blender. This was very strange. And then, stranger still, he put two cups of juice on the counter. We told him this was not what we'd asked for. We wanted gelato! He insisted he had given us what was written on the receipt. So I took the juice cups back to the cashier and told her we had paid for gelato and got juice. She took the juice cups back to the serving area and angrily dumped the juice in a container. Then, also angrily, she scooped some limone sorbet into a cone. It didn't stay in the cone, so she put the sorbet into cups and stuck the cones on top. I have no idea if she was angry at us or the server, or who made the error. The limone sorbet was definitely not gelato, but it was good. Needless-to-say, this was one of the less pleasant surprises we encountered in Italy.

 

       The train to Salerno was fast and comfortable. The monitor showed that we were traveling at 300 kilometers per hour (180 mph), and the ride was extremely smooth and quiet. Having taken trains from New York to Chicago, I can attest to the superiority of the Italian train system. The Salerno train station was very close to the water, where we went to wait for the ferry to Amalfi. Being near the Ionian Sea, I felt truly relaxed for the first time since our arrival in Italy. Mark and I are not city people, so while we enjoyed the many sites and new experiences of Rome, the VACATION part of our trip really began on the Amalfi Coast. 

       The ferry ride from Salerno to Amalfi was a wonderful way to enjoy the coast. We sat near a young couple from Texas and talked to them while we all took pictures of the scenery. Here are some of them: 

       After the ferry ride came a harrowing bus journey over the narrow, winding road to Praiano. This stock image will give you an idea of the hairpin turns we took: 

       If we had chosen to stay in the largest city of Positano, we could have taken the ferry all the way to our destination. We chose Praiano because it's a smaller village, and we wanted the least touristy taste of the Amalfi Coast that we could get. Our Air BnB host picked us up at the bus station and took us to our apartment, several levels and hairpin turns above the main street. Our host, Ivan, was very helpful in getting us oriented to our new home which you can see here: Casa Love. This is the view that we saw from our balcony before we went to bed that night: 

        

       

Day Four: Vatican City and Termini Station

       On Monday, May 6th, we had a 1:00 reservation for a tour of the Vatican museum. Again we spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to get there. We took a bus and a train, which required a lot of running around and asking for help of those Italians who spoke a little English, but we managed to get there before the allotted time. Even finding our way to the museum entrance was not easy, but we made it. My feet were already tired when we met our guide who made us stand for half an hour listening to her history lesson before we even began the tour. The lesson was interesting, but I wondered why she had to tell us over and over that Saint Paul was crucified upside-down. Visualizing that horror once was more than enough for my sensitive imagination!

     

Just one of the many ornate ceilings in the Vatican.

       Tourists visit the Vatican to see the Sistine Chapel, not realizing that the famed room will be at the very end of the two-and-a-half hour tour. There are so many rooms, all decorated with fabulous murals, statues, and ceilings, that we were grateful to find a snack bar where we could take a break before entering the Sistine Chapel. On entering the chapel we were asked to be silent, because the sound vibrations will cause erosion of the frescoes. Unfortunately, a lot of tourists ignored this plea, commenting to one another about the famous figures painted by Michelangelo, the sculptor who had been strong-armed into doing this work WITHOUT PAYMENT for Pope Julius II. 

       After seeing the chapel, Mark and I went back through the museum to find the gift shop where Rosy works. She was so happy to see us, and us her - as if we were meeting an old friend. She gave us directions to get back to Brevetta. She even offered to give us a ride home if we wanted to wait til she got off at 6:30, but it was only 4:00 and we were exhausted! 

Rosy, our Roman angel

       Before heading to the bus stop we dropped in at St. Peter's Basilica, largest church in the world. It is so huge, we couldn't take it all in, especially since we were already tired and overwhelmed by all we had seen at the Vatican. My thoughts about the opulence of these buildings were that - while they are awe-inspiring, they do not reflect the simple life that Jesus led and his compassion for the poor and oppressed. My over-all feeling about Rome is that the ancient ruins are a testament to the Roman Empire's wealth and power, and the Vatican City is a testament to the Roman Catholic Church's wealth and power. I know many Catholics who are deeply spiritual, but I think their faith comes from within, not from the opulence of their buildings. 

       We took a bus to Termini Station in order to find the right bus to Brevetta. Termini is a huge "stazione" where you can get either a bus or a train. We went inside to stand in line for the restroom where we had to pay a euro to use the toilet, and then, way at the far end of the building, found an espresso shop near a grand piano. People took turns playing the piano, and when one Asian man played "I Can't Help Falling in Love with You," the crowd of people from various countries all sang along in English! A man standing near me commented that Mark had a beautiful voice, and said how heartwarming it was to hear so many people, who don't know one another, joining their voices in song. There was more music after that - the young man was a terrific pianist and knew a lot of songs! This was one of the highlights of our trip - a wonderful surprise that wouldn't have happened if we had been on a tour!

Day Three: Borghese Gallery

       When you go out for breakfast in Italy you won't find a restaurant offering pancakes, bacon and eggs, and french toast. You have to go to a pastry shop (pasticceria) where you can choose from a variety of delectable pastries to go with your espresso or cappaccino. Mark fell in love with the espresso (just café to the Italians) and cannoli. I preferred the cappaccino since it comes in a larger cup, and I tried a different pastry each morning. 

Our first pasticceria breakfast. Mark had cappaccino, too, because he'd already made espresso at the apartment to go with our fruit and yogurt. We bought our bus tickets at the same shop.

       It was Sunday, and we had a 1:00 reservation at the Borghese Gallery where you have an allotted two-hour slot to view the museum. We studied the map on our apartment wall to figure out how to get there, but still weren't quite sure which bus to take. At the bus stop we met a friendly woman who spoke English and asked where we were going. She told us that she was from the Seychelles Islands, had married an Italian and lived in Rome for twenty years where she works in a gift shop at the Vatican museum. We told her we were going to the Vatican the next day, but today we were heading to the Borghese. She had never been there herself, but she was determined to help us get to our destination. She told us to get on the bus with her and then spoke to the bus driver and some of the other passengers to figure it out. Then she told us where to get off and which other bus to take. Her name was Rosy - our guardian angel for the day! 

       Even after getting off the bus stop near the Borghese we had a long walk, and then had to wait in line to get tickets, even though we had a reservation. By the time we entered the museum it was 2:00, but as it turned out, one hour was just enough time for us to enjoy the exhibits. 

       The ceilings and floors in the Borghese are all works of art, just as they are in all of the churches we visited, and the Vatican. It's a bit overwhelming!

       Here we are in front of Bernini's statue depicting Daphne changing into a tree in order to escape Apollo's advances. Mark remarked on how sad it is that women have always been vulnerable to the unchecked acts of self-centered men. 

  

       It was 3:00 when we finished our tour of the gallery and we hadn't had lunch yet. The museum restaurant was packed, so we decided to go out and see what we could find in the neighborhood. We walked for half an hour, not finding anyplace to eat. Finally we came to a store where we bought a couple of pre-made sandwiches to eat outside. It started to rain again, and it was a long walk back to the plaza where the bus stops are, and a long wait for the right bus to show up. If we Had been on a Rick Steves tour we would have seen more than one museum that day, and wouldn't have spent so much time looking for and riding buses. But we did enjoy a late dinner at the Brevata restaurant where families eat at 10:00 pm!

       

Day Two: Afternoon in Ancient Rome

      After lunch Mark and I braved the swarm of peddlars to make our way back to the colosseum. Peddlars hocked umbrellas and cheap souvenirs, vying for our attention by commenting on Mark's nice shoes, his beard, and asking why we were in such a hurry. Somehow they all knew to speak to us in English. (Maybe because we were hurrying past them?) We had been warned repeatedly about the pickpockets who frequent the tourist attractions in Rome, so we were prepared with a thief resistant purse for me and a neck wallet for Mark. We did not notice any criminal shenanigans the whole time we were in Italy, but we've heard enough horror stories to know that tourists must always be on their guard. 

Photographer: Mark VanLaeys

       I have to say that the Colosseum was on the bottom of my list of places to see in Rome, because I didn't want to think about the horrible things that happened there, but Mark and others insisted that this is an important part of human history not to be missed. 

       The big surprise for me was learning that people lived in the Colosseum during the Medieval Ages. Archaeologists have discovered that the Colosseum was a bustling medieval bazaar full of houses, stables, and workshops - so the monument to cruelty and death is also a testament to the renewal of life. 

       After the Colosseum we looked for the Roman Forum which I hadn't realized would require another waiting line and security check even though it was included with the Colosseum entry fee. The Forum was probably my favorite part of the day. It includes the ruins of an ancient Roman marketplace and government buildings, including the place where Julius Caesar was murdered. Mark kept saying he couldn't believe we were walking on the very stones that Julius Caesar once trod. I've got to say, those stones are huge and really hard on the feet. I don't think it would matter how sturdy your walking shoes are - your feet would still be killing you. 

One of the Forum's garden spots.

       According to world traveller, Rick Steves, we should have seen a lot more on our first day in Rome, but Rick Steves wouldn't have recommended we stay on the outskirts of the city, and he wouldn't realize how tired we were. It took us a long time to find the right bus stop to get back to Brevata, but on the way we saw more ancient ruins and the fabulous Altar of the Fatherland.

The Vittorio Emanuele II Monument, also known as the Vittoriano, Il Vittoriano, or Altare della Patria, is a monument built in honor of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy, located in Rome, Italy. It occupies a site between the Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill.

Day Two: Morning on Capitoline Hill

       The next morning Mark learned how to make espresso in the pot provided by our hostess, Arianna. We sipped it from sweet, tiny cups that my granddaughter would love. The espresso was accompanied by some items we'd purchased at the supermarcato after dinner the previous evening: little pastries, an ugly but delicious fruit called nespoli, and yogurt in little glass jars that we liked better than the best Greek yogurt we've had at home. 

       It was raining that day, Saturday, May 4th, so we went out in our rain jackets to find the bus stop. We soon learned the disadvantage to staying in Brevetta - navigating the public transportation system in order to get to our destination each day. After wandering around from one bus stop to another, we found the one that went to the Coliseum and Roman Forum, and after riding for over half an hour we started to see some ancient ruins so figured it was time to alight. Later we would discover that ancient ruins are scattered all over Rome's historic center, and it would be a long walk to the Coliseum. 

       The first building of interest that we came upon was a church that sat high above a steep flight of stairs, and halfway up the stairs a bride was ascending as four women held her train. We had no idea where we were, but later discovered it was The Basilica of St. Mary of the Altar of Heaven on Capitoline Hill. 

       Mark and I followed the bridal party up the stairs and discovered that tourists were allowed to enter the church through a side door and witness the wedding! 

        
       Our driver, Armand, had told us that Rome is full of churches, and they are all Catholic. They are also all very old and opulent. This was the first of many we would see, so we were in awe of its grandiosity. 

My feet indicate this is on the floor.
Just one of many such floor decorations.

       After spending time in this beautiful chiesa (church) we saw more of Capitoline Hill, but decided not to enter the museum since we had so much else to see that day.

       After Capitoline Hill, we wandered around a lot, not really knowing what we were seeing, but recognizing that it was all very old! 

       Here we are in front of what I later learned is the Theatre of Marcellus, built in 13 B.C., where people went to enjoy performances of drama and song. True, if we had joined a tour we would have learned more about the sites, and we wouldn't have gotten lost as much as we did, but that's not our travel style. We eventually did find a Roman resident who was walking to a bus stop near the Coliseum who showed us how to get there. By the time we arrived at our destination it was lunchtime, so we decided to take a break before continuing our site seeing. We were fortunate to find an eatery that served arancini, the Italian street food known as rice balls in the States. We ate these in honor of my cousin, Bob Lissandrello, who adores rice balls. Mark had his first Italian beer, and I enjoyed the orange soda that tastes like a non-alcoholic cocktail. 

We shared pistacchio and broccoli arancini, both delicious.

Day One: Arrival in Rome

       Mark and I spent several months researching, planning, and trying to learn some Italian before our two-week trip in May 2019.  Nevertheless, we felt ill-prepared in many ways, and found that we encountered surprises nearly every day. 

       We arrived at the Leonardo DaVinci International Airport in Rome, the afternoon of May 3rd, after a long and sleepless journey from our home in Oneonta, New York. It was such a relief to be greeted by our driver, Armand. Originally we had planned to take the train and bus to our Air BnB in Brevata, but decided to splurge on the 45 euro ride, knowing we would be exhausted on arrival and probably confused by the train and bus system. It was about a half hour drive to Brevetta, a neighborhood we had chosen for our stay because it would be quiet and not as touristy as a center city hotel. This decision would prove to have both advantages and disadvantages. 

Our home-away-from home in Rome: Brevetta apartment.

       The main advantage to staying in Brevetta was that there were very few tourists there, so we had a little taste of what life is like for ordinary Romans. We ate dinner in a neighborhood restaurant, where tourists were a novelty, and the food was scrumptious. We ended up having dinner there 3 of our 4 nights in Rome. (I'm sorry I don't remember the name of the restaurant, but it was in walking distance of our apt.) My favorite dish was a tenderly cooked artichoke.

       Mark and I thought we were late for dinner when we went to the restaurant at 7:30, but as it got later, more diners joined us. We would learn that dinnertime is much later in Italy than it is in the States. The next night we were there at 10:00 and families were still coming in to eat with their young children.

       When you sit down in an Italian restaurant the waiter will ask if you want water - "still or with gas" - and you will be brought a bottle that you have to pay for. Italians do not serve free water as we are used to. When you finish eating and drinking all you can hold, don't expect the waiter to bring your bill. You might sit at the table for 15 minutes or more, and eventually you will have to flag down the waiter and say, "Il conto, per favore." Apparently Italians like to sit and talk for hours after a meal, and they probably think that Americans are in too much of a hurry to take off. Mark and I tried our best to relax the Italian way, but we just couldn't wait to see if they ever brought the bill without being asked.